Auteur/autrice : Mathilde Daniel

Some travelers are lured by an indoor well of dirt believed to have curative powers. Throughout the year, they leave behind crutches, braces and canes in acts of prayer for infirm children and others, and as evidence that miracles happen.

Easter week visitors file through an adobe archway and narrow indoor passages to find a crucified Nuestro Señor de Esquipulas at the main altar. According to local lore, the crucifix was found on the site in the early 1800s, a continent away from its analog at a basilica in the Guatemalan town of Esquipulas.

Chimayó, known for its artisan weavings and chile crops, rests high above the Rio Grande Valley and opposite the national defense laboratory at Los Alamos that sprang up in the race to develop the first atomic weapon.

The iconic adobe church at Chimayó was cast from local mud at the sunset of Spanish rule in the Americas in the early 1800s, on a site already held sacred by Native Americans.

Set amid narrow streets, curio shops and brooks that flow quickly in spring, El Santuario de Chimayó has been designated as a National Historic Landmark that includes examples of 19th century Hispanic folk art, religious frescoes and saints carved from wood known as bultos.

A separate chapel is dedicated to the Santo Niño de Atocha, a patron saint of children, travelers and those seeking liberation and a fitting figure of devotion for Chimayó pilgrims on the go.

Hundreds of children’s shoes have been left in a prayer room there by the faithful in tribute to the holy child who wears out footwear on miraculous errands. There are even tiny boots tacked to the ceiling.

Pueblo people who inhabited the Chimayó area long before Spanish settlers believed healing spirits could be found in the form of hot springs. Those springs ultimately dried up, leaving behind earth attributed with healing powers.

Photographer Miguel Gandert grew up in the Española valley below Chimayó and made the pilgrimage as a boy with his parents.

“Everybody went to Chimayó. You didn’t have to be Catholic, » said Gandert, who was among those who photographed the 1996 pilgrimage through a federal grant. “People just went there because it was a powerful, spiritual place.”

Scenes from that pilgrimage — on display at the New Mexico History Museum in Santa Fe — include children eating snow cones to keep cool, men shouldering large wooden crosses, infants swaddled in blankets, bikers in leather and weary pedestrians resting on highway guardrails to smoke.

A generation later, Good Friday pilgrims still haul crosses on the road to Chimayó. Throngs of visitors often wait hours for a turn to file into the Santuario de Chimayó to commemorate the crucifixion.

Adrian Atencio, 30, knelt and ran his hands through the well of red earth in the floor in the Santuario. Atencio, from nearby San Juan Pueblo, has been making the Good Friday trek since age 7. This time it was about the future and new beginnings.

“I have a newborn on the way. I was kind of walking for him today,” he said.

It is just one of hundreds of adobe churches anchoring a uniquely New Mexican way of life for their communities. Many are at risk of crumbling into the ground in disrepair as congregations and traditions fade.

Some pilgrims walk 20 miles (32 kilometers) from Santa Fe, while others travel for days from elsewhere. They traverse an arid landscape speckled with juniper and piñon trees and cholla cactus that finally give way to lush cottonwood trees and green pastures on the final descent into Chimayó.

Vendors sell religious trinkets, coffee and treats. State transportation workers, law enforcement agencies and other volunteers are stationed along the roadway to ensure safety from oncoming traffic, the outdoor elements and exhaustion.

The magnitude of the religious pilgrimage has few if any rivals in the U.S. Many participants say their thoughts dwell not only on Jesus Christ but on the suffering of family, friends and neighbors with prayers for relief.

“You can’t come here and not feel something,” said Dianna De Leon of Albuquerque, who was joined by her 78-year-old mother, Victoria Trujillo, who carried a weathered crucifix on one shoulder.

Trujillo has been making the journey for 51 years, except when the church closed during the COVID-19 pandemic.

“It’s a little piece of heaven — all this faith and all this hope,” she said.

Cardinal Robert McElroy has bluntly called this unfolding misery and injustice a « war of fear and terror, » and it is. In fact, it could be said that « this war is Christ’s Passion in us, » which is how spiritual author Caryll Houselander described the experience of the English people during World War II in her book, This War is the Passion. And as with Jesus in the Garden and after his arrest, this suffering includes not only the abuse inflicted upon migrants and refugees by the government, but the lack of noticeable support by people they considered to be friends.

Many fear this crisis will lead only to ruin, but there is one thing in our lives that is not endangered and in which we can take hope — and that is the ongoing presence of Jesus the Risen Lord among us. In that knowledge, Houselander added in her book, « we can face the war in His spirit. » This includes offering up these trials and worries to our Redeemer and also completing in ourselves what is lacking in his afflictions, as St. Paul did (Col 1:24). In the Gospel mystery of human suffering, where Jesus, the crucified one, comes to meet us and takes our adversity upon himself, « We can carry our share of the Cross as a loving work for each other to help our common redemption, » urged Houselander.

Yet, while redemptive suffering is a grace, it would be better still if these injustices and infamies did not happen at all. This is why we need to speak up as St. Óscar Romero did, and as McElroy emphasized at a recent information session on this current crisis for parish and ministerial leaders. We must stand with those at risk, his eminence said, and we cannot let the dark side of anti-immigrant animus take hold.

Tragically, this onslaught is instead being met with silence by many — or even approval. To those of you who are silent or think this does not involve you, to those of you who are not troubled by this — or worse, who applaud it — particularly those who are Catholic, I ask you: Do you not see the suffering of your neighbors? Do you not realize the pain and misery and very real fear and anxiety these unjust government operations and policies are causing? Is your conscience not disturbed? How can you stay quiet? In the final teaching of his public ministry, Jesus warned that we will be judged on how we respond to others in distress (Mt 25:41-46).

These disturbing actions in violation of fundamental human rights and dignity are not only being taken against undocumented persons, gang members, and those who have committed violent crimes, but against peaceful and productive migrants and refugees across the board — which also negatively impacts their resident family members, some of whom are U.S. citizens — and against organizations like the Catholic Church that assist them. It seems that no one is safe now from arbitrary nullification of his or her protected status, visa or green card. This has left many terrified that they or their loved ones might be seized and disappear without warning.

For example, the protected status of refugees and others granted asylum has been arbitrarily terminated without any wrongdoing on their part. Visa-holders and permanent residents have had their legal authorizations revoked and then been grabbed off the street by masked government agents, held incommunicado without access to their attorneys, and imprisoned pending deportation. University scholars and others have also been refused entry or detained at the border after traveling abroad. Even U.S. citizens are viewed with suspicion or subjected to ethnic profiling based entirely on how they look or speak. Those who are naturalized citizens might be wondering if they will be targeted next, whether some pretext might be contrived for secret revocation of their naturalization.

The video of a student being accosted by masked agents after her visa was revoked without notice — apparently because of an op-ed she co-wrote years ago — is horrifying. Most egregiously, the government has now claimed the authority to unilaterally seize certain people based on mere suspicion, or because of their tattoos, and send them to a prison in El Salvador accused of human rights abuses — all without review by a court to even determine their identity. The government admits some have been wrongfully deported, but officials are fighting attempts to right these wrongs.

More than a few natural-born Americans are saying they do not recognize their country anymore, but many of us from other lands recognize all too well the terror of people being snatched by secret police and disappeared. We left our former countries precisely to get away from it. Yet, too many people are still remaining silent, perhaps out of fear, forgetting that the Holy Spirit gives us the grace of fortitude to boldly speak out for good.

When I was growing up in El Salvador, there was a man who was not afraid to speak out. His name was Óscar Romero, archbishop of San Salvador. It seems to me that we need more Óscar Romeros today. We need everyone of good will to follow his lead and demand that the government respect human dignity.

In his last Sunday homily on the day before he was killed, St. Óscar Romero made a special appeal to government agents: « It is time now for you to reclaim your conscience and to obey your conscience rather than the command to sin, » he said. « We want the government to understand well that the reforms are worth nothing if they are stained with so much blood. In the name of God, then, and in the name of this suffering people, whose laments rise up each day more tumultuously toward heaven, I beg you, I beseech you, I order you in the name of God: stop the repression! »

I urge government officers and support staff in the present situation to heed these words which echo through history. It is time now for you to reclaim your conscience. What you are doing is worth nothing if it is stained with unjust cruelty. That is not what America stands for. You too can and should speak out against this terror and infliction of suffering on people. You can refuse to be involved in oppression and these grievous assaults on human rights and dignity.

True, if you do, there may be adverse personal consequences. Óscar Romero certainly paid a price for speaking against the state of siege in his country. It might even mean leaving your job, but that is better than being complicit with evil, and it will lead to something even greater. As this holy man said in his last words before his martyrdom, « If we have imbued our work with a sense of great faith, love of God, and hope for humanity, then all our endeavors will lead to the splendid crown that is the sure reward for the work of sowing truth, justice, love, and goodness on earth. »

« This is the lesson that we should learn from Holy Week, that when we look upon the face of Kilmar … and all the people who suffer unjust persecution, when we look on their faces, we should see the face of the suffering Christ, » said Pastor Michael Vanacore, of Pilgrim Church United Church of Christ in Wheaton, Maryland. « For every single soul that they send to that hellhole [prison] in El Salvador, we, in the United States, are putting another nail in Jesus’ body. »

After a lawsuit seeking Abrego’s freedom, the U.S. Supreme Court told the Trump administration April 10 it had to « facilitate » the man’s return but President Donald Trump shifted the responsibility to El Salvador’s president Nayib Bukele, whom he met at the White House as the vigil was taking place. Bukele said he couldn’t « smuggle a terrorist » back into the U.S., referring to Abrego. 

A group gathered outside the building that houses the Salvadoran embassy in Washington a few hours later used the word « terrorist » against Bukele chanting: « Bukele Fascista, vos sos el terrorista, » or « Fascist Bukele, you are the terrorist. »

Gilbert said before the vigil began, authorities had closed the part of the park closest to the White House, perhaps so that those inside wouldn’t hear the prayers of the people of faith gathered nearby.

« Trump has the possibility of saying, ‘Bring this man back to our country. Bring this man back.’ And he won’t even address it, » Gilbert lamented. « We came out here to pray. This was a prayer service and we were removed. And look how far back we have to be from the White House because of the fear that exists when truth is spoken through prayer or through signs or through witness or through anything. »

She also briefly attended the gathering outside the embassy, calling out « Kilmar, Kilmar » on the busy road that faces the embassy, as cars drove by in the direction of the White House. Activists nearby railed against Bukele for not speaking up for Salvadoran immigrants in the U.S. during his White House visit. They also built a makeshift prison out of cardboard to call attention to abuses they say are taking place inside the « terrorism center » called CECOT — including many stories similar to Abrego’s, of deported migrants sent there even before Trump took office.

In early January, Salvadoran mothers spoke with National Catholic Reporter warning others about their sons’ wrongful imprisonment after they were deported from the U.S. during the Biden administration. Like Abrego, they were sent straight to prison by Bukele’s government once they landed in El Salvador. Several mothers said their children lacked a criminal record.

Abrego’s case, however, has garnered international attention in no small part because Jennifer Vasquez Sura, Abrego’s wife, has been tirelessly seeking support to free her husband and has received help from groups that organized the vigil and other events, including Congregation Action Network, CASA, as well as other faith-based organizations.

Representatives from Catholic groups such as the Franciscan Action Network, Justice Team for Sisters of Mercy of the Americas and Catholic Workers also participated in the vigil, some carrying posters with quotes or images of Salvadoran St. Óscar Romero. Prince George’s County State’s Attorney Aisha Braveboy also attended and told Abrego’s wife that « no matter where he is in the world, [Abrego] is still a resident of Prince George’s County, » and said the federal government is at fault. « They have to make it right. »

U.S. Sen. Chris Van Hollen, D-Maryland, said he will travel to El Salvador to check on Abrego since he was not given the chance to speak with Bukele about freeing him during his U.S. visit. But the vigil reminded those gathered that there were other immigrants deported along with Abrego, who share in his terrible fate at the CECOT prison though they are not Salvadorans. They include Venezuelans: Andry José Hernández Romero, a makeup artist; Arturo Suárez-Trejo, a singer; and Neri José Alvarado Borges, a baker.

« They and every single one of the people detained and deported to that prison, they are the ones whom a Salvadoran priest and martyr, [Jesuit Fr.] Ignacio Ellacuria called the crucified peoples of the world, » said Vanacore, the pastor. « And the only response during Holy Week is to take him down from the cross. Bring Kilmar home. »

Joelle Novey, a Jewish participant at the vigil, told those gathered that when human beings are held unjustly in captivity, « the injustice is so grotesque that God gets involved. »

She spoke of shaving people’s heads, as Bukele’s government has done, taking the wrongly imprisoned far away from home and loved ones, and scoffing at judges who have ruled that they be freed, and said that « this violence disgusts and enrages the God who intends all of us only for honor and dignity and the gentlest touch. »

Biblical accounts tell of the time when pharaohs imprisoned people unjustly, she said, and reminded them to look at the Book of Exodus.

« Let me remind you how this story ends every time: the plagues don’t just come down on Pharaoh but on everyone in the sick society that enables this terrible wrong, » she said. « The water turns to blood for Pharaoh and also for everyone who stood aside and said ‘I don’t look like an Israelite so that would never happen to me.’ « 

Scripture talks about those who keep their heads down, close their eyes, and keep on with their lives, ignoring the plight of the innocent, she added.

« The diseases, the swarms of insects, they don’t just come for Pharoah, and they will come all of us, too, everyone who stands back and stays quiet and enables the tyrants right here in Washington, D.C., who are now straight up spitting in the face of God, seeing what we will do about it, » Novey said.

The Vatican had refused to comment before today (April 13) on whether the pontiff would be able to participate in any of the Vatican’s Holy Week celebrations, the most sacred period of the year for Christians. 

Throughout the past week, however, Francis has made surprise appearances in public, leading many Vatican officials to believe the pope would participate in the Palm Sunday liturgy in some capacity. 

Cloudy skies, intermittent wind and light rain at the start of the Mass seemed to cast a shadow over that possibility. Yet as the Mass neared its end, the sun had arrived. and soon thereafter, the pope followed. 

Francis appeared without nasal tubes, which he has been using for oxygen supply. He took time to greet the cardinals — many of whom had not seen the pope since his March 23 return to the Vatican — along with other Vatican officials in attendance.

The pope also greeted some of the diplomats present at the Mass and passed out pieces of candy to several small children in attendance, though he spent the most time with a group of religious sisters who appeared overjoyed by the pope’s presence. 

Following his public appearance at the outdoor Mass, the Vatican released a video showing Francis praying inside St. Peter’s Basilica, including at the tombs of St. Peter and St. Pope Pius X. 

The Palm Sunday Mass, which marks the start of Holy Week, was concelebrated by some 36 cardinals, 30 bishops and more than 300 priests. 

Argentine Cardinal Leonardo Sandri, the vice dean of the College of Cardinals, presided over the nearly two-hour liturgy and read the pope’s prepared homily, which reflected on the figure of Simon of Cyrene. 

Simon, a mere passerby, was forced by Roman authorities to carry the cross of Jesus en route to his crucifixion. 

« When we think of what Simon did for Jesus, we should also think of what Jesus did for Simon — what he did for me, for you, for each of us: he redeemed the world, » read the pope’s message. 

« The cross of wood that Simon of Cyrene bore is the cross of Christ, who himself bore the sins of all humanity. He bore them for love of us, in obedience to the Father; » he continued. « He suffered with us and for us. In this unexpected and astonishing way, Simon of Cyrene becomes part of the history of salvation, in which no one is a stranger, no one a foreigner. » 

The witness of Simon, said the pope, is that Jesus comes to encounter everyone in every situation that they might find themselves in life. 

« Jesus’ passion becomes compassion whenever we hold out our hand to those who feel they cannot go on, when we lift up those who have fallen, when we embrace those who are discouraged, » Francis said. 

« Brothers and sisters, » the pope continued, « in order to experience this great miracle of mercy, let us decide how we are meant to carry our own cross during this Holy Week: if not on our shoulders, in our hearts. » 

The Vatican’s Holy Week liturgies will continue on Holy Thursday, with the Chrism Mass in St. Peter’s Basilica, leading into the Easter ​​Triduum.